We went several hours out of our way to bathe in what has to be the most incredible public swimming baths we've ever heard of. Recommended to us by our CouchSurfing host, we spent a couple of hours in the hot spring water taking in the view and sheltering from the bitter wind. A masterpiece of modern architecture, the pool complex is extremely cheap too.

as we were camping, often in front of 'No Camping' signs, we were on the road pretty early most mornings. That meant we got to see views like this in the cold, still morning air where not a breath of wind stirred the waters of Icelands innumerable lakes.

On the last night of our trip, the temperature (in mid-August) dropped to freezing and it snowed on the hills. This meant that, on our last day as we headed back to the airport, we had a chance to see two sides of Iceland at once, the brief summer and long winter combined.